Step-by-step: How to fit 1959–2000 Mini lower engine mounts at home (jack stands + trolley jack)

Important: This is a general home-workshop procedure for the lower engine mounts for Minis & Mokes fitted with manual gearboxes. Minis vary with year, subframe type, and what’s been modified over the last 50+ years—so treat this as a careful guide, and not the only possible method.

Tools + supplies

• Trolley jack + 2 jack stands (rated appropriately)
• Wheel chocks
• Socket set/spanners (commonly 1/2″ AF for 5/16″ UNF/UNC fasteners on most Minis)
• Long extensions + universal joint (helpful)
• Torque wrench
• Penetrating oil (WD-40, CRC & INOX)
• Small Pry bar
• Wood block (to spread load when supporting engine/gearbox)
• New Engine Mounts 21A1902 (2 required), and optional fastener Fit Kit 21A1902FK (1 required)

Safety tips (don’t skip this)

• Work on flat, solid ground.
• Chock rear wheels, handbrake on, and leave the car in gear.
• Lift the front and support the car on jack stands placed under solid structure/subframe points—never rely on the trolley jack alone.
• When supporting the engine, use a jack with a wood block to spread load. Don’t concentrate force on the aluminium sump edge.
• Keep fingers clear when aligning mounts—engine movement is sudden and heavy.

Overview of the job (what you’re doing)

Each side typically has:

• 2 bolts fixing the mount to the subframe
• 3 bolts fixing the mount to the engine/gearbox mounting bracket

You’ll support the engine, remove one mount at a time, install the new mount, then repeat for the other side.

Procedure

A) Raise and support the car

• Chock rear wheels place handbrake firmly on
• Jack the front of the car up.
• Place jack stands securely.
• Give the car a firm shake test (it should feel rock solid).

1. B) Preparation

• Spray penetrating oil on the mount fasteners (subframe side + engine bracket side).
• Loosen (don’t remove) the mount fasteners while the car is still stable, if access allows.

C) Support the engine/gearbox

• Position the trolley jack under the engine/gearbox area with a wood block.
• Jack up just until you see the engine’s weight taken (you don’t want to lift the car off the stands).
• Watch hoses, exhaust, and radiator area for tension.

D) Remove ONE mount (do one side at a time)

• Undo the 2 bolts to the subframe.
• Undo the 3 bolts to the engine/gearbox bracket.
• Remove the old mount.
• Compare old vs new mount orientation (the mount has an angled form—fit it the same way the old one sat).

E) Fit the new mount (and why captive nuts help)

• Install the new mount into place.
• Start all bolts finger-tight
  • If using 21A1902ST (captive/castellated nuts), this is where it shines: you typically don’t have to fight a loose nut while lining up bolts under the car.
• If bolt holes don’t line up:
  • slightly raise/lower the jack supporting the engine to relieve bind
  • use a pry bar gently to align holes
  • never force bolts in cross-threaded

F) Torque the fasteners

• Engine mount to subframe: 16 lb-ft (22 Nm)
• Engine mount to mounting bracket: 16 lb-ft (22 Nm)
• (Related bracket fixings can vary by side/application; one listing shows LH bracket-to-transmission at 18 lb-ft / 25 Nm in that chart.)

G) Repeat on the other side

• Keep the engine supported.
• Replace the second mount the same way.

H) Final checks before lowering

• Ensure all fasteners are torqued.
• Inspect for clearance around:
  • exhaust/downpipe
  • radiator shroud / hoses
  • throttle and choke linkage
  • carb/manifold area (movement here is exactly what good mounts help control)

I) Lower the car and road-test

• Lower engine support jack.
• Lower vehicle off stands.
• Start the engine and observe:
  • excessive rocking at idle
  • new noises or knocking
• Short test drive, then re-check fasteners for tightness

Quick troubleshooting after install

• Vibration worse than before: mount orientation wrong, one mount not seated flat, or an engine steady/tie-bar is worn.
• Bolts won’t line up: engine needs to be supported slightly higher/lower; don’t force threads.

Clunk on take-off: check lower tie-bar bushes and top engine stay-bar bushes for excessive wear.